How effective are cosmeceuticals?

Anti-ageing cosmeceuticals are very popular. Those who want to do something for a fresher, more youthful appearance but shy away from aesthetic procedures often turn to active ingredient cosmetics first. In this interview, Dr Laurence Imhof explains the importance of active ingredient cosmetics in aesthetic treatment concepts and how well their effects have been researched.

SkininForm: What can cosmeceuticals do in the overall concept of aesthetic treatments?

PD Dr Laurence Imhof: In my treatment concept, I recommend cosmeceuticals on the one hand to prevent skin ageing and on the other hand to maintain the results after skin rejuvenation treatments. In addition to UV protection, I consider cosmeceuticals to be an essential part of the daily skincare routine. In addition to prevention and maintenance, some active ingredients can also reduce mild signs of skin ageing to a limited extent.

In your opinion, what are currently the most important active ingredients in anti-ageing cosmeceuticals?

Antioxidant molecules such as vitamins C and B3 as well as polyphenols are among the most important anti-ageing active ingredients. As a supplement to sun protection filters, they help to minimise the most visible effects of UV radiation, such as the formation of wrinkles or pigmentation spots, by combating free radicals. They can also stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastic fibres and slow down their breakdown. Retinoids and bioactive peptides applied externally are also important substances. In addition to their effects on the surface of the skin, they also have a repair effect that has a positive impact on deeper skin wrinkles.

How do you assess the scientific data situation for cosmetic active ingredients in cosmeceuticals?

The most effective ingredients in anti-ageing cosmeceuticals that have been tested in high-quality studies include vitamins B3, C, A and their derivatives as well as various alpha-hydroxy acids, or AHAs for short, such as glycolic acid. Evidence level A is available for these, i.e. data is available from studies in which the use of the substance was compared with placebo according to the highest scientific standards. In addition, some peptides have shown promise in research, and their efficacy is also underpinned by solid scientific studies.

What are the limits of current scientific knowledge on cosmeceuticals?

Data obtained from studies on cell cultures should often be interpreted with caution. The stability of cosmetic active ingredients in cosmeceuticals is often problematic. This is the case, for example, with vitamins A and C, which are easily degraded by exposure to light and air. Active ingredients such as retinol often undergo several processing steps in the body before they reach their active form. This raises the question of whether the final concentration is still effective. The base into which an active ingredient is incorporated can also influence its bioavailability in the organism and its efficacy. This makes it all the more important to obtain study data under controlled conditions during use on test subjects. However, one shortcoming of many cosmetic active ingredients is the lack of high-quality studies that prove their efficacy and tolerability according to the highest scientific standards. The number of participants is often small. Data on long-term effects is also often lacking.

The interview was conducted by Angelika Bauer-Delto, HautinForm. Read the original article here.